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Old 01-14-2003, 03:46 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Okay, I took 2 old pieces of gourd stitch that I did years ago and diagrammed them for this thread. They are small pieces that were beaded on the quill of feathers rigged to hang on a tradish dance stick. Both of these were done in 13/0 beads and it was 27 beads around the piece thus 9 beads around a finished row. They were done entirely in base 1 designs. Here is the first.
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Old 01-14-2003, 03:48 AM   #22 (permalink)
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And the second
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Old 01-14-2003, 12:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Wow, great designs! Thanks to you guys for posting these. I think I might try this out on something. I haven't done peyote stitch for years.
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Old 01-20-2003, 12:10 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Can someone help me PLEASE?
I have been doing this 3 drop for about 2 years and all I can do is simple basic patterns because I am left handed. Where can I find 3 drop graph paper for LEFTYS?
I have tried to follow patterns on right handed graphs but my left brain overloads my right and it ends up a big mess.
Someone would make my day if they could point me in the right direction.
If any of you do research this, thank you in advance for your time.
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Old 01-20-2003, 01:08 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Is this what you are talking about?
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Old 01-20-2003, 02:58 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Old 01-21-2003, 05:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Re: expantion and contraction

Bum... you are doing a really fantastic job here... I have been truly impressed! :Thumbs :clap:

Chemist... awesome designs, looking forward to more! ;) :bouncy:


Now.. back to you bum... you know me so I just have to say I'm really NOT being a smart azz to ya here ok.. this one is a legit question.. :) :p
Since I am "right brained " I cannot follow the tech talk of beading. You have it explained very well, and it is the closet I have come to having it broken down for me so I can understand.. but I'm just not getting it. :Thinking :wall: :dontknow:

You know I've been beading for years and it has always been just by blind luck and divine intervention that my patterns have worked out but if I could finally "get it" this would really open up doors for me in the desiging world... :Help


Quote:
Originally posted by powwowbum49
To go back to our example from earlier, the 1/3 we pulled off was 18 so if you have to add a bead to expand then you now 19 around a finished row. With this you go from being able to make patterns based on 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, 18 to only being able to make pattern based on 1, 19. Now say the example piece is a fan handle and you are still expanding, the next bead added will make it 20 beads around the finished row. This now has pattern possibilities of 1, 2, 4, 5, 10, 20. So now with that said if you are making a base 2 design coming up to the expansion bead then you might use a solid color after the expantion has been added (which would still be a base 1 design technically) until the next expansion bead is added. Then you can start the base 2 design element again, thus forming a design that goes all the way around the piece without having to use solid color fill areas on the sides of the piece.
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Old 01-21-2003, 08:42 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Mato..sounds like you need a live visual... when you got some spare change...I suggest getting the beginning peyote /gourd stitch video from (whispering winds?) Crazy Crow... I never understood the whole gourd stitch way of beading till I saw it... I had always learned to peyote stitch in the way that you go every other bead instead of this way. Once you see that video...all of what he has explained above will make absolute perfect sense.
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Old 01-22-2003, 12:03 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Nope.. video won't help me.... like i said I have been doing this for years.. I do all types of peyote stitch.. It is with the mathmatical equations to figure in a design that I can't do... does that help explain my defict any better?? :Thinking
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Old 01-22-2003, 01:12 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Mato

This mathematical method is just the best way I could think of to try and explain how to start building patterns in this style beadwork.

If you look at the base one designs...that means that every bead you put on starting that element will be part of that design. Base 2 means every other bead and base 3 mean every third bead and so on.

Below is an example to try and explain what I am talking about. The first row is base one. The second row is base two. Third row is base three and the fourth row is base four. (the black beads represent the actual design element while the gray beads are just to show the rows progression and would be the background/fill color.)

Hope this helps
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Old 01-22-2003, 12:11 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I have never attempted 3 drop stitching.

I can do anything in the every other bead stitch.

The patterns both of you have supplied look great!

I guess my question is what is the advantage of going to 3 drop over doing every other bead? Is the 3 drop what gives you the freedom to do the three angles of design implementation? I have never thought about more than two angles with the beading I have done. For example, in this thread I posted pictures from my staff and it shows the two angles of the feather motif, is there a third angle possible without going to a 3 drop stitch?
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:36 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I am not sure there is any specific reason/advantage to using 3 bead drop gourd stitch over 2 bead drop (or what some people call peyote stitch or as you said 'every other bead') outside of different pattern possibilities. This does allow for different looking designs and thus uniquely different pieces just as Brick stitch makes unique looking pieces. Besides that some people just have a person preference in the style they like to work with. I myself use both 2 bead and 3 bead (but more often 3 bead) and nearly never brick stitch (it is a pain in the butt if you ask me). Another advantage of 3 bead is that you can reverse direction of the beadwork and this expands design possibilities dramatically (but I ain't even going to attempt to explain how to do this, if anyone is interested the whispering winds magazine craft annual vol. 3 covers this variant extremely well).

As to your second question...yes there are 3 directions you can make designs in, in 2 bead drop. The big difference between 2 bead drop and 3 bead drop is that in 2 bead drop the angles going out left and right are the same. Below is an example of what I am saying and you can compare it to the line directions shown earlier in this thread.
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Old 01-24-2003, 11:01 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by powwowbum49
As to your second question...yes there are 3 directions you can make designs in, in 2 bead drop. The big difference between 2 bead drop and 3 bead drop is that in 2 bead drop the angles going out left and right are the same. Below is an example of what I am saying and you can compare it to the line directions shown earlier in this thread.
I understand. Thanks!

I have done enough brick stitch work to learn that it really only has certain applications where its a good choice. Mainly the problems I find with brick stem from when you have any "flat" space to cover with your beadwork, it can be a real pain to be able to thread the gap between beads. Like when doing a fan handle, pipe stem, or a dance stick/staff that isnt based off of a dowel rod, those flat sides are much harder to hit than when doing peyote or gourd. I have gotten around this by saving a few needles that have become bent in just the right places taht they are almost curved now.

The plus side to brick is that it is very easy to add and subtract beads to accomodate changing circumfrences, IMO.

Thanks for the clarification on the angle differences though, what you said makes sense.
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Old 01-25-2003, 12:01 AM   #