Ribbonwork Tutorial - Page 2

tribaltagz · 02-09-2007, 10:48 AM

My auntie just uses manila folders for her ribbonwork templates. I use plastic sheets kind of like what they use for transparencies. One time I found this plastic stuff that was gridded like graph paper. GREAT STUFF! I'm sure I got it at Wal Mart since in my home town that's all there is! Really, you can use anything as long as it's stiff and doesn't lose it's edge with tracing multiple times....

**spottedeagle** · 02-10-2007, 12:03 AM

Thanks for the help Paul!!!!! I bought Scarlet Ribbons and have the recent article in Wispering Winds on Clip and Fold, but I was having a hard time connecting the dots. I think I have it figured out now. Guess we'll find out soon enough, I'm going to try doing a little clip and fold work on a shirt soon in addition to my applique work.

A tip I'd like to add is with small detail work, you can seal the edges of your material with products like fray check after heat bonding them. There are a couple other methods as well. If they are super small you can then use a straight stitch to sew them down.

Creewoman05 · 02-11-2007, 12:58 PM

Awesome tutorial, 2 thumbs up from me!

tcumonster · 03-26-2007, 01:12 AM

Keeping in mind that I work in a hospital, I have used old x-rays for template material. It holds up pretty well to the repeated use and light ironing. I talked to one or our radiology techs and she gave me several of the films they use to clean the machine. Also, the plastic sheeting that you make stencils out of might work.

**eap7** · 03-27-2007, 05:51 PM

Try using the blank plastic stencils from Walmart. They'll be with the other stencils, but the blank one is just a sheet that doesn't have anything cut out of it. Its pretty cheap and you can trace out the ribbonwork pattern on paper, then cut out the paper, trace it onto the plastic, cut out the plastic, and have your pattern to use over and over again!

Sweetsage02 · 04-11-2007, 04:46 PM

I'm glad I ran into this thread...I always wondered how to do ribbonwork. Thank you for sharing - appreciate it!!

winawachikaNtn · 05-21-2007, 11:18 PM

finally one i can understand, thank you for posting this Tutorial

Apaze25 · 09-25-2007, 05:34 PM

Hi,

Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have printed it all out, and it is in my crafts file. I love the step-by-step instructions and pictures and all the tips really help.

Two questions-- fray check. This is staining my applique fabric. Do you use something else? Not use it?

Also, tight corners. Do you sew all the way to the end and then back up and turn, or do you just turn at the corner. I am having trouble with these. I love my machine, but it ends a seam with the needle up! ARGH. Makes it hard to turn corners.

Thanks again for a great tutorial.

Paul G · 09-25-2007, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apaze25

Hi,

Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have printed it all out, and it is in my crafts file. I love the step-by-step instructions and pictures and all the tips really help.

Two questions-- fray check. This is staining my applique fabric. Do you use something else? Not use it?

Also, tight corners. Do you sew all the way to the end and then back up and turn, or do you just turn at the corner. I am having trouble with these. I love my machine, but it ends a seam with the needle up! ARGH. Makes it hard to turn corners.

Thanks again for a great tutorial.

I manually move the dial slowly until I can get the needle right on the point then make the turn.

Apaze25 · 09-25-2007, 08:35 PM

Thanks for the advice. I have been working at it since I got home from work. Back breaking! LOL! The test appliques are coming along. I stop and go manual with the wheel right before the corners and it works.

Take care! and thanks again.

Czechy · 09-25-2007, 09:25 PM

Glad you find the tutorial helpful.

For sewing your appliques, hopefully you are using a a very close stitch length- almost like a satin stitch. At tight corners, I sew past the corner only enough to equal the width of my row of stitching. I put the needle down in the OUTSIDE position so that when I lift up the presser foot and pivot my work to sew the next side, I am actually sewing over the last bit of the previous sides's stitiching. I hope that makes sense. If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see the corners are a little darker, because of the overlapped sewing there. Some people pivot with the needle on the inside edge and this is okay but it does leave little gaps in the corners.

What are you using the Fray-chek on?

Apaze25 · 09-25-2007, 09:56 PM

thank you!

That makes perfect sense. I tightened my stitch and then made sure I had the needle on the outside. Before I did that I was having trouble zigging instead of zagging (LOL!) and having the seam after the corner turn go on the inside instead of along the edge of the applique fabric. ACK!

I am using ribbon for the applique fabric. It was fraying, so I was using that Dritz fray check on the edges. When I switched to a tighter stitch, you couldn't see the marks anymore because they were covered. Is it better to use satin instead of ribbon? I want shine, but it satin frays less I'll use that. I am practicing now before I do THE appliques. It is for a T-dress.

It is getting late, so I had better call it a night.

Thanks again for all your help. I WILL get this!

Czechy · 09-26-2007, 11:33 AM

Are you fusing the ribbon to a stabilizer? A good stabilizer like Wonder-Under or the Heat-n-Bond Lite will prevent fraying and give some body to thin fabrics. The double-sided kind will allow you to "glue" on your applique to the base fabric so there is no need to pin it for sewing down. If you use the stabilizer, you won't need the Fray-chek. The only time I would not use a stabilizer is when doing the snip-n-fold style of ribbonwork, which is a different method altogether.

Ribbon can be used for applique but you'll find it more economical and a wider choice of colors if you use yard goods. Yes, satin is a very popular choice. There are several grades of satin, some being very thin (usually called costume satin and its the cheapest) while at the other end is the bridal satin which is heavier (and more expensive). I prefer the medium to heavier satins. They wear better and look nicer.

Apaze25 · 09-26-2007, 11:52 AM

I actually had some satin lying around and tried that vs. the ribbon last night, and it worked much better. I am using Steam a Seam. I think I have read that Wonder Under is a bit more stiff than Steam a Seam, so I will look for that at the store when I go tonight to get my scissors sharpened.

Thanks again!

Take care

Blackbear · 01-03-2008, 06:22 AM

Hey Czechy.. I forgot this thread was here and made a small applique tutorial myself but it was for ribbonwork strips... would you be offended if I just added it to this tutorial?

02-09-2007, 10:48 AM	#21 (permalink)
tribaltagz pow-wow gear central! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Jay, OKlahoma Posts: 56	cut n fold My auntie just uses manila folders for her ribbonwork templates. I use plastic sheets kind of like what they use for transparencies. One time I found this plastic stuff that was gridded like graph paper. GREAT STUFF! I'm sure I got it at Wal Mart since in my home town that's all there is! Really, you can use anything as long as it's stiff and doesn't lose it's edge with tracing multiple times....

02-10-2007, 12:03 AM	#22 (permalink)
spottedeagle FANMAKR Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Soaring over you Posts: 4,473	Thanks for the help Paul!!!!! I bought Scarlet Ribbons and have the recent article in Wispering Winds on Clip and Fold, but I was having a hard time connecting the dots. I think I have it figured out now. Guess we'll find out soon enough, I'm going to try doing a little clip and fold work on a shirt soon in addition to my applique work. A tip I'd like to add is with small detail work, you can seal the edges of your material with products like fray check after heat bonding them. There are a couple other methods as well. If they are super small you can then use a straight stitch to sew them down. __________________ The things you are doing today are the traditions of twenty-five years from now. -Daryl Baldwin: Miami

03-26-2007, 01:12 AM	#24 (permalink)
tcumonster Tiny Tot Dancer Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 90	Template material Keeping in mind that I work in a hospital, I have used old x-rays for template material. It holds up pretty well to the repeated use and light ironing. I talked to one or our radiology techs and she gave me several of the films they use to clean the machine. Also, the plastic sheeting that you make stencils out of might work.

04-11-2007, 04:46 PM	#26 (permalink)
Sweetsage02 Powwow Up!! Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: This Rez Posts: 212	I'm glad I ran into this thread...I always wondered how to do ribbonwork. Thank you for sharing - appreciate it!! __________________ But Boss, I am working!!......on finding my next pow-wow that is!

09-25-2007, 05:34 PM	#28 (permalink)
Apaze25 Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 17	Thank you and a few questions Hi, Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have printed it all out, and it is in my crafts file. I love the step-by-step instructions and pictures and all the tips really help. Two questions-- fray check. This is staining my applique fabric. Do you use something else? Not use it? Also, tight corners. Do you sew all the way to the end and then back up and turn, or do you just turn at the corner. I am having trouble with these. I love my machine, but it ends a seam with the needle up! ARGH. Makes it hard to turn corners. Thanks again for a great tutorial.

02-11-2007, 12:58 PM	#23 (permalink)
Creewoman05 Banned Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Surrey BC Posts: 1,693	Awesome tutorial, 2 thumbs up from me!

03-27-2007, 05:51 PM	#25 (permalink)
eap7 ~Erica~ Join Date: Apr 2000 Posts: 1,237 Blog Entries: 5	Try using the blank plastic stencils from Walmart. They'll be with the other stencils, but the blank one is just a sheet that doesn't have anything cut out of it. Its pretty cheap and you can trace out the ribbonwork pattern on paper, then cut out the paper, trace it onto the plastic, cut out the plastic, and have your pattern to use over and over again!

05-21-2007, 11:18 PM	#27 (permalink)
winawachikaNtn Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 5	finally one i can understand, thank you for posting this Tutorial

09-25-2007, 08:35 PM	#30 (permalink)
Apaze25 Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 17	Thanks Thanks for the advice. I have been working at it since I got home from work. Back breaking! LOL! The test appliques are coming along. I stop and go manual with the wheel right before the corners and it works. Take care! and thanks again.

09-25-2007, 09:25 PM	#31 (permalink)
Czechy wrapped in ribbonwork! Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Here....for now Posts: 781	Glad you find the tutorial helpful. For sewing your appliques, hopefully you are using a a very close stitch length- almost like a satin stitch. At tight corners, I sew past the corner only enough to equal the width of my row of stitching. I put the needle down in the OUTSIDE position so that when I lift up the presser foot and pivot my work to sew the next side, I am actually sewing over the last bit of the previous sides's stitiching. I hope that makes sense. If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see the corners are a little darker, because of the overlapped sewing there. Some people pivot with the needle on the inside edge and this is okay but it does leave little gaps in the corners. What are you using the Fray-chek on?

09-25-2007, 09:56 PM	#32 (permalink)
Apaze25 Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 17	Thanks Czechy thank you! That makes perfect sense. I tightened my stitch and then made sure I had the needle on the outside. Before I did that I was having trouble zigging instead of zagging (LOL!) and having the seam after the corner turn go on the inside instead of along the edge of the applique fabric. ACK! I am using ribbon for the applique fabric. It was fraying, so I was using that Dritz fray check on the edges. When I switched to a tighter stitch, you couldn't see the marks anymore because they were covered. Is it better to use satin instead of ribbon? I want shine, but it satin frays less I'll use that. I am practicing now before I do THE appliques. It is for a T-dress. It is getting late, so I had better call it a night. Thanks again for all your help. I WILL get this!

09-26-2007, 11:33 AM	#33 (permalink)
Czechy wrapped in ribbonwork! Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Here....for now Posts: 781	Are you fusing the ribbon to a stabilizer? A good stabilizer like Wonder-Under or the Heat-n-Bond Lite will prevent fraying and give some body to thin fabrics. The double-sided kind will allow you to "glue" on your applique to the base fabric so there is no need to pin it for sewing down. If you use the stabilizer, you won't need the Fray-chek. The only time I would not use a stabilizer is when doing the snip-n-fold style of ribbonwork, which is a different method altogether. Ribbon can be used for applique but you'll find it more economical and a wider choice of colors if you use yard goods. Yes, satin is a very popular choice. There are several grades of satin, some being very thin (usually called costume satin and its the cheapest) while at the other end is the bridal satin which is heavier (and more expensive). I prefer the medium to heavier satins. They wear better and look nicer.

09-26-2007, 11:52 AM	#34 (permalink)
Apaze25 Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 17	thanks! I actually had some satin lying around and tried that vs. the ribbon last night, and it worked much better. I am using Steam a Seam. I think I have read that Wonder Under is a bit more stiff than Steam a Seam, so I will look for that at the store when I go tonight to get my scissors sharpened. Thanks again! Take care

01-03-2008, 06:22 AM	#35 (permalink)
Blackbear Space Cowboy Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Alaska Posts: 9,618	Hey Czechy.. I forgot this thread was here and made a small applique tutorial myself but it was for ribbonwork strips... would you be offended if I just added it to this tutorial? __________________ Don't worry that it's not good enough for anyone else to hear... just sing, sing a song.