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Old 06-08-2004, 09:55 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Rock77
HOW did the beadwork pop off?
well it's simple really , i only beaded on the top half of the skin . the skin is so thin that it just broke . i'm designing my pair for NOAC this summer , and I'm using german tanned in the white (smoked) and rawhide as far as I can see. my other moccs are a mess . the left mocc is kinda wierd because as soon as you put it on the sides poof out and look wierd . I musta cut it too big but it's too late now . my other pair will kich a$$ I have the beadwork set out and all my friends say it's awesome design . well I'll let you know how it turns out
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Old 06-08-2004, 10:15 AM   #102 (permalink)
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hey pwb49: is it best to punch the holes at an angle or just straight down ? this came up in my first pair .also which do you suggest beading first or second ? just a couple of quick questions. I might have some more soon
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Old 06-08-2004, 03:25 PM   #103 (permalink)
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If you are unsure whether you have made the upper pattern right and do not know if it will fit ok...then I would suggest doing the beadwork after you have put the moc together. For an inexperienced moc maker it is very easy to make mistakes and if the beadwork is already on the upper before it is sewn together you can't just take it apart and adjust it.

As to the hole question...I am assuming you mean those that are prepunched in the sole. These hole should NEVER come out on the bottom of the moc sole, because if they did you would be walking on the threads that stitch the mocs together and would wear them in two in short order causing your mocs to come apart. These hole should be punched at an angle so that the hole start on the top of the sole and comes out in the side of the leather. Go back through the pics I attached to this tutorial and find the one where I am punching the holes in the sole. You can see how I am angling the holes so they come out the side of the sole.
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:27 PM   #104 (permalink)
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pwb;
okay will do . like i said earlier the beadwork on mine just popped off while i was turning it inside out . so I was just wondering if this technique is easier .
thanks for the help
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Old 09-01-2006, 06:05 PM   #105 (permalink)
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If I make a pair of mocs out of canvas I also put about a 3/8" wide strip of leather around the edge all the way around the top. So it would be over the bias tape. Then I sew the moc top to the sole. My son is a grass dancer and does alot of dancing with his toes. This extra save the beadwork. He can drag his toes and not be rubbing the beads off.

I haven't tried the latigo soles. I just take my mocs down to the leather store and have them soled. They both glue and sew on the thick leather soles or vibram soles. I will have to try the rawhide soles. Do they get slippery on grass? How long do they last? My kids dance just about every weekend for usually 5 sessions in different weather conditions. Soles usually last about 5 pow wows.
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Old 09-07-2006, 11:39 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Boy I couldn't imagine a moc with a vibram sole on it...LOL...be like dancin in huntin boots. I do know folks that will make their mocs and then take them to town and have a second leather or foam sole glued onto them. Even knew a guy that used a flip-flop sole as the sole on a moc.

Rawhide soles last very well but they are slick on concrete...not to bad on grass though. Nice thing about them is that they will form to the persons foot as they are worn and get damp. Just for your info...rawhide moc sole leather is not like rawhide for a drum or commercial rawhide. It has the flesh side scraped clean and them fur side is dry scraped leaving the scarf skin and some small amounts of hair on it.

Latigo isn't too bad and is easier to work with than rawhide but wears out faster. The most important thing about making good mocs that will last a long time is to use good hide, uppers included. Commercial hide will always wear out faster than brain tanned. If I am using commercial I like to use elk or thicker...in fact elk is my all around favorite for hard sole mocs, moose for soft soles
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:35 AM   #107 (permalink)
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I made a pair of hard sole to wear around everywhere. Sole is latigo, upper is commercial tanned elk. They don't look so pretty anymore because in the summer that's all I wear unless it's raining but they are holding up rather well.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:45 PM   #108 (permalink)
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yes the Vibram soles wear well. They are not the full thickness of a pair of hunting boots. I can't imagine my daughter dancing in something that awkward. She would rather go barefoot. I think that I will try the rawhide sole though. If they hold up well on concrete and grass, is that also true for hardwood floors?. Alot of the winter dances are in gyms. Thank you for all the help.
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Old 02-29-2008, 05:53 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powwowbum49 View Post
STEP 24

Now you can put on a tongue in the desired shape you want. You may also want to run a lace through the upper of the moc as per the tribal style you have chosen to do. I prefer to use an awl to punch the hole for the laces through the hide rather than cutting slits in it.

Once these things are done your mocs are ready to try on. If you chose to bead them after sewing them up then you have a bit more work to do. If the uppers were beaded first, then you may have a bit of edge beading and embellishing left but should be pretty well finished.

Good luck and if anyone has any more questions feel free to fire away.



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Old 10-09-2008, 02:03 PM   #110 (permalink)
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check ur local bead store that sell native work. they should know of someone local.
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