New Traditional" Look??

OldSchool'n · 03-19-2006, 01:52 PM

This is my first post after "lurking" for some time now. Anyway, thought I'd start off with a question.

Getting back into dancing after nearly a 20 year absense. No real "connections" here where I now live, so I have been "out of touch" for a while. Anway, my daughter has gotten me interested in dancing again. In taking a NEW look I am seeing a LOT of changes have taken place for Northern Traditional regalia. All my "old" regalia is...well...old, worn, and very outdated. I have been seeing a lot of aplique' work on items like vests, aprons, cuffs etc., and most with everything from the cuffs to the bustle drops matching in design, texture and color. New trend I guess????

I have always been a BIG fan of fancy beadwork both loom and lazy stitch (mostly lazy stitch), but some of the applique' stuff looks really nice too. Not to mention, fully beaded vests etc., cuffs, etc. take a LONG time to complete. Just curious what most of ya'll prefere and how many like the applique look. I am thinking maybe some applique' for now to get me into the circle and maybe more beadwork later if I so desire.

Sorry to be so ignorant, but things appear to have changed...a LOT.

Thanks in Advance!

sunbursthonor · 03-19-2006, 04:24 PM

redthunder has completed a type of regalia called ribbonwork, which is pretty much all aplique. I am working on a set of ribbonwork regalia as well. also, i am doing a little bit of beading to make things match, for instance moccasins or my dance staff. if you have any questions you can PM me and i can help you with what i know.

OldSchool'n · 03-19-2006, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunbursthonor

redthunder has completed a type of regalia called ribbonwork, which is pretty much all aplique. I am working on a set of ribbonwork regalia as well. also, i am doing a little bit of beading to make things match, for instance moccasins or my dance staff. if you have any questions you can PM me and i can help you with what i know.

PW sent!

Thanks

redthunder · 03-19-2006, 05:28 PM

I have 3 outfits of aplique. I like it a lot, it's alot lighter than beadwork, but nothing beats the look of lazy stitch at all.

**WocusWoman** · 03-19-2006, 07:15 PM

Yes, things have changed. Not everyone is able to do beaded outfits, or pieces. Being able to sew or find one whom sews, is more cost and time effective in pulling together a dance outfit now days. I sew myself, but I'm just amazed at some of the other applique work I have seen. I've actually seen outfits, and had to take a second look, because at a distance it looked all beaded.

OldSchool'n · 03-20-2006, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WocusWoman

Yes, things have changed. Not everyone is able to do beaded outfits, or pieces. Being able to sew or find one whom sews, is more cost and time effective in pulling together a dance outfit now days. I sew myself, but I'm just amazed at some of the other applique work I have seen. I've actually seen outfits, and had to take a second look, because at a distance it looked all beaded.

I'm not sure where I wanna go. I like some of the new styles, but plan to be using some of the old regalia I still have. New bustle and roach are certainly in order regardless.

I am considering shooting for a more "traditional" look with more buckskin (ie leggings), tradecloth, lazy stitch beadwork, etc. However, seems like you just don't see that near as much of that these days. The applique has it's appeal, but can't but think that SOME of it looks rather "canned".

southern_xtreme2k5 · 03-20-2006, 05:32 PM

i have 1 set of applique (vest/shirt)breechcloths/sidedrops W ribbon fringe, and working on a 2nd set, i have to admit nothing tops beadwork but the applique stuff you can design anything anycolor and with different materials you can create a unique look, either way you go just dont go tacky and order everything from crazycrow or somethin lol

**billyjoejimbob** · 03-20-2006, 08:48 PM

My wife is making a new dress and we are using applique designs on it. But I am going to make matching beaded items like a barette, bags and hari ties.

sunbursthonor · 03-20-2006, 10:07 PM

I am considering shooting for a more "traditional" look with more buckskin (ie leggings), tradecloth, lazy stitch beadwork, etc. However, seems like you just don't see that near as much of that these days. The applique has it's appeal, but can't but think that SOME of it looks rather "canned".[/quote]

alot of people in my area (NWGA TN SC, and even AL) have alot of buckskin regalia... curently that is what i have. email me and i will show you what i mean. i love that look, and would keep it but only for the winter when it is cold. it gets to hot in the summer for me. so i am making regalia that will "breath" better. and its a bit more flashy too!

sookout sh'nob · 03-20-2006, 11:38 PM

I have the unique ability to sew beads onto cloth and leater without making any kind of discernable line whatsoever. On the other hand, I quill pretty good.

Applique can be faster, but it still takes quite a bit of time and a lot of skill and patience. Ribbonwork and complicated fireworks patterns can take just as long to put together and sew down as beadwork - especially if you're trying to fight bias or working with stretchy or slick fabrics without the proper tools.

That said, I charge nearly as much for applique as my wife does for beadwork - I like to stay busy, but not too busy.

**spottedeagle** · 03-21-2006, 06:57 AM

I started making a beadwork set and realized it was going to take a long time to complete, mainly due to my design. So I beaded the smaller items and accesories. Now I'm working on an applique set that I can swap out as I get the beaded pieces finished. Doing this gives me a number of options when both sets are complete as well.
If you are doing it yourself. Starting from scratch buying beads can be pretty expensive. Depending on the type of material and getting stuff on sale, applique can be cheaper. So if money is an issue that is something else to consider.
Personally I prefer the beadwork, but with 4 kids and myself to make outfits for. I just can't always find time to work on stuff for myself.

If you are looking for a roach, I'm sure many here will agree with me on this one. PM Powwowbum49, he one of the moderators. Makes the best roaches around and he's very reasonable. He has pictures of his work in the gallery as well.

OldSchool'n · 03-21-2006, 10:56 AM

I want to thank everyone SO MUCH for the replies.

sunbursthonor, e-mail was sent. I'd LOVE to see anything you have to send!

Yep, not sure on the roach other than I know I wanna go 18 to 20 inches. Probably red deer hair outside and white inside. Just like my old roach.

How is the applique generally applied for regalia? My wife is thinking much like quilting with the sewing machine? There seems to be several methods. She is a good seamstress but just hasn't really done much applique. I wouldn't even know how to turn the machine on myself

One of my favorite pieces from my old outfit is my otter. No one seems to be wearing these any more. Too old school????

Ref. stuff from Crazy Crow. Bad stuff? I have gotten a few supplies from them (ie, beads, buckskin, trade cloth) and the quality seems okay. Granted, some of the "Kits" are cheezy for sure. Has anyone used any of their hand painted feathers? I don't know whether to go hand painted for the bustle or use peahen feathers. My old bustle was turkey and it is in poor shape.

Again, thanks for all the help and suggestions.

sookout sh'nob · 03-24-2006, 12:13 PM

Word.

Here's a brief rundown on some applique techinque -it's similar enough to a modern quilting applique.

There's a product out there, basically it's an iron on glue, I like it a lot because it comes on a paper backing. It's like fusible interfacing, but without the interfacing (your wife should be able to find it at just about any sewing store) - I'll call it fusing here.

First, I Iron the fusing to the back of the fabric I want my applique to be done on. I usually draw the applique pattern out ahead of time and cut out just enough enough fabric for the pattern (or as many copies of the pattern as i need). Iron the fusing to the applique. Voila, you know have a sheet of paper glued to your fabric. Trace the applique pattern onto the paper. Cut it out. Pretty simple stuff eh?

Next, peel the paper off of the back of your applique cutout. place the applique on the shirt/harness/etc. Double check to make sure it's positioned where you want it to be (don't forget to allow for seams). Iron the applique to the fabric and voila, no need to pin. I've heard of people leaving it at this step, but I sew it down - sometimes i use the same color of thread and sometimes i use a contrasting color - all depends on the look i'm going for. I set the stitch for a wider coverage (usually a 5 on my machine, but this will most likely mean nothing unless you have the exact same machine) and just follow around the edge of the cutout until it's secured all the way around.

Personally, I think the applique looks better sewn down. I also know my sleeve isn't going to fall apart if my shield or breastplate rubs it the wrong way.

Otters: I don't think there are as many trappers now as thier used to be 20 years ago. Otters go for about $300, that might be what's stopping some people. They still seem to be pretty popular with people who live on or close to the Great Lakes - can't say for sure about the plains situation.

OldSchool'n · 03-24-2006, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sookout sh'nob

Word.

Here's a brief rundown on some applique techinque -it's similar enough to a modern quilting applique.

There's a product out there, basically it's an iron on glue, I like it a lot because it comes on a paper backing. It's like fusible interfacing, but without the interfacing (your wife should be able to find it at just about any sewing store) - I'll call it fusing here.

First, I Iron the fusing to the back of the fabric I want my applique to be done on. I usually draw the applique pattern out ahead of time and cut out just enough enough fabric for the pattern (or as many copies of the pattern as i need). Iron the fusing to the applique. Voila, you know have a sheet of paper glued to your fabric. Trace the applique pattern onto the paper. Cut it out. Pretty simple stuff eh?

Next, peel the paper off of the back of your applique cutout. place the applique on the shirt/harness/etc. Double check to make sure it's positioned where you want it to be (don't forget to allow for seams). Iron the applique to the fabric and voila, no need to pin. I've heard of people leaving it at this step, but I sew it down - sometimes i use the same color of thread and sometimes i use a contrasting color - all depends on the look i'm going for. I set the stitch for a wider coverage (usually a 5 on my machine, but this will most likely mean nothing unless you have the exact same machine) and just follow around the edge of the cutout until it's secured all the way around.

Personally, I think the applique looks better sewn down. I also know my sleeve isn't going to fall apart if my shield or breastplate rubs it the wrong way.

Otters: I don't think there are as many trappers now as thier used to be 20 years ago. Otters go for about $300, that might be what's stopping some people. They still seem to be pretty popular with people who live on or close to the Great Lakes - can't say for sure about the plains situation.

THANKS! That was GREAT info. I think I will save the otter in case they ever come back! LOL They are HOT as you know what!

JamesDJ · 03-29-2006, 10:00 PM

hi there here in michigan there has been alot of lazy stich I may have some ideas for you if you would like.... James

03-19-2006, 01:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
OldSchool'n Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 15	New Traditional" Look?? This is my first post after "lurking" for some time now. Anyway, thought I'd start off with a question. Getting back into dancing after nearly a 20 year absense. No real "connections" here where I now live, so I have been "out of touch" for a while. Anway, my daughter has gotten me interested in dancing again. In taking a NEW look I am seeing a LOT of changes have taken place for Northern Traditional regalia. All my "old" regalia is...well...old, worn, and very outdated. I have been seeing a lot of aplique' work on items like vests, aprons, cuffs etc., and most with everything from the cuffs to the bustle drops matching in design, texture and color. New trend I guess???? I have always been a BIG fan of fancy beadwork both loom and lazy stitch (mostly lazy stitch), but some of the applique' stuff looks really nice too. Not to mention, fully beaded vests etc., cuffs, etc. take a LONG time to complete. Just curious what most of ya'll prefere and how many like the applique look. I am thinking maybe some applique' for now to get me into the circle and maybe more beadwork later if I so desire. Sorry to be so ignorant, but things appear to have changed...a LOT. Thanks in Advance!

03-19-2006, 04:24 PM	#2 (permalink)
sunbursthonor Teen's Contemporary Trad. Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Probably somewhere in the www.powwows.com game room LOL no seriously, in GA Posts: 307	redthunder has completed a type of regalia called ribbonwork, which is pretty much all aplique. I am working on a set of ribbonwork regalia as well. also, i am doing a little bit of beading to make things match, for instance moccasins or my dance staff. if you have any questions you can PM me and i can help you with what i know. __________________ Even YOU can change!

03-19-2006, 05:28 PM	#4 (permalink)
redthunder Powwow King Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 484	I have 3 outfits of aplique. I like it a lot, it's alot lighter than beadwork, but nothing beats the look of lazy stitch at all. __________________ I'm interested more in self determination than gender equity. In other words, changing white men for white woman in the structures of power, does nothing to transform the opression in my community. "You need to find yourself a girl, mate... Or, perhaps the reason you practice three hours a day is that you already found one and are otherwise incapable of wooing said strumpet. You're not a eunuch, are you? [looks down]" -Captain Jack Sparrow

03-20-2006, 05:32 PM	#7 (permalink)
southern_xtreme2k5 SX We Here Now!!!! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Mexico 505 Posts: 160	.... i have 1 set of applique (vest/shirt)breechcloths/sidedrops W ribbon fringe, and working on a 2nd set, i have to admit nothing tops beadwork but the applique stuff you can design anything anycolor and with different materials you can create a unique look, either way you go just dont go tacky and order everything from crazycrow or somethin lol __________________ SOUTHERN XTREME.....WE HERE NOW!!!!! www.southern-xtreme.com www.myspace.com/southernxtremesingers pictures, video, audio, visit and sign the guest book.....Shout out 2 da SX Fam and to our extened FAm The hiLLz Calvin, Sheri, Yesi, CeCe and Chippy, and Yeti their giant canine creature

03-20-2006, 10:07 PM	#9 (permalink)
sunbursthonor Teen's Contemporary Trad. Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Probably somewhere in the www.powwows.com game room LOL no seriously, in GA Posts: 307	not true I am considering shooting for a more "traditional" look with more buckskin (ie leggings), tradecloth, lazy stitch beadwork, etc. However, seems like you just don't see that near as much of that these days. The applique has it's appeal, but can't but think that SOME of it looks rather "canned".[/quote] alot of people in my area (NWGA TN SC, and even AL) have alot of buckskin regalia... curently that is what i have. email me and i will show you what i mean. i love that look, and would keep it but only for the winter when it is cold. it gets to hot in the summer for me. so i am making regalia that will "breath" better. and its a bit more flashy too! __________________ Even YOU can change!

03-19-2006, 07:15 PM	#5 (permalink)
WocusWoman N8tiffUmatillaMAMA Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Interior Alaska Posts: 2,740	Yes, things have changed. Not everyone is able to do beaded outfits, or pieces. Being able to sew or find one whom sews, is more cost and time effective in pulling together a dance outfit now days. I sew myself, but I'm just amazed at some of the other applique work I have seen. I've actually seen outfits, and had to take a second look, because at a distance it looked all beaded.

03-20-2006, 08:48 PM	#8 (permalink)
billyjoejimbob Fat Singer Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: white guy land Posts: 1,526	My wife is making a new dress and we are using applique designs on it. But I am going to make matching beaded items like a barette, bags and hari ties.

03-20-2006, 11:38 PM	#10 (permalink)
sookout sh'nob Boogie Monster Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 544	I have the unique ability to sew beads onto cloth and leater without making any kind of discernable line whatsoever. On the other hand, I quill pretty good. Applique can be faster, but it still takes quite a bit of time and a lot of skill and patience. Ribbonwork and complicated fireworks patterns can take just as long to put together and sew down as beadwork - especially if you're trying to fight bias or working with stretchy or slick fabrics without the proper tools. That said, I charge nearly as much for applique as my wife does for beadwork - I like to stay busy, but not too busy.

03-21-2006, 06:57 AM	#11 (permalink)
spottedeagle FANMAKR Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Soaring over you Posts: 4,516	I started making a beadwork set and realized it was going to take a long time to complete, mainly due to my design. So I beaded the smaller items and accesories. Now I'm working on an applique set that I can swap out as I get the beaded pieces finished. Doing this gives me a number of options when both sets are complete as well. If you are doing it yourself. Starting from scratch buying beads can be pretty expensive. Depending on the type of material and getting stuff on sale, applique can be cheaper. So if money is an issue that is something else to consider. Personally I prefer the beadwork, but with 4 kids and myself to make outfits for. I just can't always find time to work on stuff for myself. If you are looking for a roach, I'm sure many here will agree with me on this one. PM Powwowbum49, he one of the moderators. Makes the best roaches around and he's very reasonable. He has pictures of his work in the gallery as well. __________________ The things you are doing today are the traditions of twenty-five years from now. -Daryl Baldwin: Miami Last edited by spottedeagle; 03-21-2006 at 06:59 AM.

03-21-2006, 10:56 AM	#12 (permalink)
OldSchool'n Pow Wow Visitor Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 15	I want to thank everyone SO MUCH for the replies. sunbursthonor, e-mail was sent. I'd LOVE to see anything you have to send! Yep, not sure on the roach other than I know I wanna go 18 to 20 inches. Probably red deer hair outside and white inside. Just like my old roach. How is the applique generally applied for regalia? My wife is thinking much like quilting with the sewing machine? There seems to be several methods. She is a good seamstress but just hasn't really done much applique. I wouldn't even know how to turn the machine on myself One of my favorite pieces from my old outfit is my otter. No one seems to be wearing these any more. Too old school???? Ref. stuff from Crazy Crow. Bad stuff? I have gotten a few supplies from them (ie, beads, buckskin, trade cloth) and the quality seems okay. Granted, some of the "Kits" are cheezy for sure. Has anyone used any of their hand painted feathers? I don't know whether to go hand painted for the bustle or use peahen feathers. My old bustle was turkey and it is in poor shape. Again, thanks for all the help and suggestions.

03-24-2006, 12:13 PM	#13 (permalink)
sookout sh'nob Boogie Monster Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 544	Word. Here's a brief rundown on some applique techinque -it's similar enough to a modern quilting applique. There's a product out there, basically it's an iron on glue, I like it a lot because it comes on a paper backing. It's like fusible interfacing, but without the interfacing (your wife should be able to find it at just about any sewing store) - I'll call it fusing here. First, I Iron the fusing to the back of the fabric I want my applique to be done on. I usually draw the applique pattern out ahead of time and cut out just enough enough fabric for the pattern (or as many copies of the pattern as i need). Iron the fusing to the applique. Voila, you know have a sheet of paper glued to your fabric. Trace the applique pattern onto the paper. Cut it out. Pretty simple stuff eh? Next, peel the paper off of the back of your applique cutout. place the applique on the shirt/harness/etc. Double check to make sure it's positioned where you want it to be (don't forget to allow for seams). Iron the applique to the fabric and voila, no need to pin. I've heard of people leaving it at this step, but I sew it down - sometimes i use the same color of thread and sometimes i use a contrasting color - all depends on the look i'm going for. I set the stitch for a wider coverage (usually a 5 on my machine, but this will most likely mean nothing unless you have the exact same machine) and just follow around the edge of the cutout until it's secured all the way around. Personally, I think the applique looks better sewn down. I also know my sleeve isn't going to fall apart if my shield or breastplate rubs it the wrong way. Otters: I don't think there are as many trappers now as thier used to be 20 years ago. Otters go for about $300, that might be what's stopping some people. They still seem to be pretty popular with people who live on or close to the Great Lakes - can't say for sure about the plains situation.

03-29-2006, 10:00 PM	#15 (permalink)
JamesDJ Tradional Dancer/Singer Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ypsilanti Posts: 2	hi there here in michigan there has been alot of lazy stich I may have some ideas for you if you would like.... James