Ismella Pharte

Was just wondering, when you all do lazy or applique` for big projects like mocc tops, leggings, yokes or vests, do you always mount them on frames? I'm having a hard time trying to maneuver around the frame. Is there any other way? :(

Czechy

Nope. I've never used a frame/embroidery hoop for securing my work. I don't know why one would need to. In fact, I think it could be a disadvantage as it might make your work bunch up once the tension is released from the frame. I do my beading on leather or on medium-heavy canvas for anything that will be completely covered.

Ismella Pharte

:D Great! You make me feel so much better.I was told that I would have to use the frames (i'm using canvas - two layers-one on the inside and one on outside with layers of either freezer paper or pellon in-between , was told that this would hold up better)that way it would be tight work and would not bunch nor be too loose.(lazy)
For leather I was even taught to use embroidery hoops if it was a thin leather. I have used the embroidery hoop for a hair barrette on canvas.(applique)
How do you work the big projects like a vest?
How do you get your work tight without bunching, without the frames??? That fascinates me!!! :D
Gosh I love this board!!! :D

Mato Winyan

Hey, I was another one taught to use a frame. While it is cumbersome at times I don't see how anyone could do a big project without the lazy stitch being way too loose. I would think it would be alot harder. But hey, I'm sure open to learning a new, easier way.
I'd be intrested in hearing how people do their vests, yoke or other large items!! :D

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"We see it as a desecration not only of a mountain but of our way of life. This is a genocidal issue to us. If they kill this mountain, they kill our way of life." ~Debra White Plume

Czechy

Besides having an even and consistant beading technique, I think there are two key things to nice tight and flat beadwork. The first is to choose a base material that will be sturdy enough to support the weight of your beads. It also has to have enough body or stiffness to it that it won't pucker or get bunched with every stitch you take. The second key is to use a beading thread thick enough to fill the bead holes yet still be able to go through your beads the number of times you need to. Both of these things will help prevent problems with "loose" or wimpy beadwork. Actually, I am nearly halfway done with a fully beaded dress yoke which has medium-heavy canvas as the base material. I've been beading it by holding it in my lap or I sit on the floor and spread it out in front of me. This is my biggest single project yet. I do have some solidly beaded lazy stitch leggings done on canvas that are ten years old and they still look great.

Mato Winyan

Czechy:

I thought about PM'ing you with my questions, but then thought maybe someone else could benefit.

Is the canvas you use called "duck"? How many layers? Any stablizer in between? How do you draw your design on? I use 13/0 cuts for alot of my work but have planned on using 12/0's for the bigger work so they will go farther.

Please forgive me if I repeat myself, I'm trying to build up my confidence so I can actually do this!!! :D :D :D :D :D ;)

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"We see it as a desecration not only of a mountain but of our way of life. This is a genocidal issue to us. If they kill this mountain, they kill our way of life." ~Debra White Plume

Czechy

I use duck canvas, the unbleached kind. It comes in various weights and I'm sorry to say that I don't remember the specific ounce weight I usually get. (I just fondle the fabric until I find one that feels right!) I could send you a sample piece if that would help. Avoid the canvas used for outdoor furniture. Besides being colored, its too stiff and its expensive.

For lazy stitch projects, I usually have my designs laid out on graph paper beforehand. On the canvas itself I often only mark a vertical line down the center of the piece. I might mark other reference points if I need to. I follow my designs from my graph paper charts and so don't need to draw them again onto the canvas. I almost always end up adding to or changing some aspect of my designs while I am beading them so thats another reason why I don't draw on my canvas. Just because I don't do it doesn't mean you can't. By all means, if you find it helpful, go right ahead.

For lazy stitch, I bead directly onto the canvas. Its heavy enough that I don't need additional layers. But if you want extra stiffness, you can always add some later by ironing on some heavy interfacing to the backside. Once my work is complete, sometimes I add a calico backing to protect my stitches and give it a nice finishing touch.

For large items done in overlay stitch, I draw out my entire design onto lightweight interfacing. Then I iron this interfacing onto my canvas. I bead directly through both layers.

The sandwich method using thinner layers of canvas could work ok if it will support your work without getting distorted. Some beaders have had success with this but I am not one of them. (Any of you with a method that works for large projects, please chime in!) Experiment with a small project like a dance purse and see how it goes. Keep me posted! :)

Ismella Pharte

Thanks guys, I've been away for awhile.

Do you draw lines on the canvas as a guide for lazy? if not how do you keep your work straight,consistent and not leaning to either side?

Suzizila

If you have the outline of your project on the canvas or leather, you can use really cheap 1/2 scotch tape to mark your rows. I have done this for a few projects & it seems to work out fine.

This is a link to Paul's old site. It should help you to get started.
http://library.thinkquest.org/3081/craft.htm

Good luck!

[ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: Suzizila ]

Czechy

I draw a line on my canvas only for my first row of lazy stitch beading. After that, I just use the last finished row as a guide for the next. However, I've been beading for over 12 years so I can get away with that. Less experienced beaders may find it helpful to have more guidelines penciled in.

Also, be observant of the size of the beads that you pick up on your needle. Every batch of beads will have some that are bigger or smaller than the rest in that batch. If you pick up too many of these odd ones, just dump them back and try again. Discard any crooked beads. Paying attention to the bead size will help you create consistent stitches. This little detail really does make a difference in the look of the final product.

I am going to look at canvas this weekend and get the ounce weight so I can post it here. Happy beading!