Meggers_018

I've decided to try to bead a pair of moccasins for my new outfit. I've never done a pair before. I asked a couple of friends who bead them for some advice, but we really didn't get a lot of time to talk about it. They suggested beading on a piece of canvas first, then sewing that onto leather of the moccasin. that way, if for some reason i need to, i can save the beadwork, and just change the leather. I think I'm going to try that, but I'm not sure exactly how to attach all the pieces once they are done be beaded. Anyone have any advice on this or anything else i may not have thought of yet? Any help would be GREAT! Thanks!

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between2worlds

Depends on the style of moc, how much of the moc you're going to bead and so forth. I make tradish potawatomi-style mocs. I bead on canvas (usually white cuz I buy that by the yards 'n yards!) since pot beadwork is kind of free flowing (read: a very hard style to transfer to loomwork unless you use very small beads and are working a very large piece cuz everything is curved not square ).

After I get something beaded, I cut out the piece and fray check the edges (you can use the stuff they sell at the craft store OR clear fingernail polish - side note if you use clear fingernail polish it works better if you put the polish on the line you're going to cut, let it dry and THEN make your cuts). I tuck the edges under and either glue, stitch or just tuck as I sew the bead piece on to my moc (depending on the size of the piece and how lazy I feel).

The next thing I do is cut a lining for the moc with enough spare to wrap the side cuffs over the leather. The side beading goes on this wrapped-over-lining before I attach it to the moc. I also cut a "v" shaped toe part that wraps back into the lining at the "throat" of the moccassin. I use this V shape because pot mocs are gathered across the top of the foot and this gives me a flat surface to put the beadwork on.

When I attach the beading I use regular sewing thread that is the same color as the beads. I take a piece of thread and fold it in half, then half again, then wax it and thread my needle. I put the beadwork where it's supposed to go and stitch it down, starting in the middle of the piece and working outwards (circular seems to work best for me). The last row of stitching is in-between the outermost rows of beading.

I take beads that match up with my pattern and go in and out of the outermost row of beads (like the attached image)
to hold down the outermost edge of the canvas.

I hope you can adapt some of this to what you are doing.

~b2w

Attached Images

finishedge.gif (1.8 KB, 28 views)

Blackbear

I'd love to help but I've yet to make a pair of fully beaded plains style moccasins. I do tuscarora style with the velvet vamps and cuffs that are beaded but that's not what you are looking for.

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Don't worry that it's not good enough for anyone else to hear... just sing, sing a song.

wyo_rose

Well, if you're an experience beader, I would bead directly on the buckskin. Usually you only have to replace the sole if it blows out. If for some reason you need to, you can cut the whole thing out off the top of the moc and do something else with it. I made my daughter some hair ties out of some moc tops that turned out funny.

If you're committed to beading on canvas, what I would do is cut the canvas (and backing/stiffener) to the finished size. Wrap the edges with single fold bias tape and tack that in place. Then bead it. That way you have a stabilized edge that will also keep the holding stitches in place without blowing out.

crowtribe

Does anyone know how to to get rawhide soles in moccasins and what type of thread do you use?? Would love to hear from anyone who can help!!!

Blackbear

You need to get an awl and punch the holes in the rawhide while it's wet before sewing them to the uppers and welt... i've found sinew real or artificial works best for me. Also use a size 3 skin needle.. it's not too big and not too small. I've made plains style moccs, hard and soft soled, just not fully beaded ones.

__________________
Don't worry that it's not good enough for anyone else to hear... just sing, sing a song.

indio

I thought about beading on canvas for mocs, but the idea didn't go past that. I was taught to bead directly to the hide. As far as sewing the hide to the soles, I start sewing @ 9 o'clock and stoped it around 6. Then I go back to 9 o'clock and go counterclockwise back the 6. That's the only way I can explain it. I wasn't talking about time either.

Speaking of mocs, I got the ones I just recently finished back from the zapateria. The guy there added another plastic sole to bottom to re-enforce the ones I had already. He said they were tripping him out and that they were glowing. Maybe he had a black light in the back.

SmilezAlot

Can anyone help me? When fully beading moccasin tops, how far from the edge of the hide do you start beading?

Blackbear

i'M GOnna take a stab at saying about a half an inch.. just because when I sew my uppers to the soles, I go in between 1/4 and 1/2 inch from the edge.

__________________
Don't worry that it's not good enough for anyone else to hear... just sing, sing a song.

kiowakat

It seems it would depend on the material your using for the mocs and how much beadwrok....if your using real brain tanned buckskin and real rawhide and real sinew then you can go 1/8 of an inch from the edge...I imagine if you use commercial hide and commercial soles you probably would have to do the 1/2 inch, turning them inside out would be a bit harder...my opinion only tho lol

OLChemist

I do about 1/2". Any closer and the latigo can rip the beadwork when you turn it.

I make my stitches a bit closer together on the arch and outside edge of the foot. This seems to help at least on the turning. Also, if you're using latigo, massage and flex the heck out the sole before attaching the upper. This makes it easier to turn.

SmilezAlot

Thanks for your help guys!!

wyo_rose

At first I thought you were showing your beading schedule!

I tack at Noon, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00. Then go back and spend all day sewing.

1/2 inch is a good rule of thumb. But after you wear your mocs and might be using the same pattern you can alter this. Notice where your foot "overstepped" the sole and then adjust your pattern, or bead further from the edge at those spots, and as close as 1/4 inch or closer.

If your sole rips out your beading when turning, something else is wrong - either your materials or the way you beaded the edge.