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To answer your questions -- in my opinion, the kits from Crazy Crow and others are very good for beginners. All materials are included and instructions are easily to follow. Best advice, especitally if you are a beginner -- take your time, don't cut corners and be patient. I have seen some very nice bustles made from kits purchased from Crazy Crow -- bustles made by both natives and hobbyists at different skill levels. For a beginner, it's a good way to go.
Now, to the "mess" bustles as you (and others) call them. I have been a round bustle dancer for more than 30 years. I prefer this old time style but you don't see it much these days -- it was pretty popular in the 60s but has since faded with the recent rise in popularity of modern traditional. I defer to my good Lakota friends who years ago, gave me the honor, instruction and privilege of dancing this style. There are some good articles on old style bustles in back copies of Whispering Wind -- one of their annual editions has an article dedicated to old style bustles. Check it out. Good luck with your project.
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